Beauty of Joseon: The 500-Year-Old Encyclopedia That Built a Modern Skincare Brand

Long before serums came in droppers, Korean court physicians were already writing down what rice water, ginseng and honey could do for skin — and one modern brand quietly built its whole catalogue around that manuscript.

Beauty of Joseon is one of the few Korean brands that took a very old idea — traditional Joseon-era skincare recipes — and rebuilt it with modern cosmetic science, minimal fuss, and prices that stay under $30 for almost everything. At Kool Seoul we ship the full active range straight from Seoul via DHL, and orders over $150 are free. This guide walks you through what the brand actually stands for, which references are worth your money, and which ones you can skip.

Where Beauty of Joseon comes from (Dongui Bogam meets modern formulation)

Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water 150mlthe essence-water that started the hanbang wave$19Shop now →

The name is a direct reference to the Joseon dynasty, the Korean royal era that ran from 1392 to 1897. It's also a nod to the Dongui Bogam, a medical encyclopedia compiled in the early 1600s by court physician Heo Jun. That text catalogued hundreds of botanical and mineral ingredients, including many that today's Korean formulators still lean on — rice water for softness and radiance, ginseng for tone and firmness, propolis and honey for soothing, mugwort for calming, red bean for pores. Beauty of Joseon's product philosophy takes those pillars and re-engineers them as modern cosmetic products: standardized extracts, controlled percentages, stable preservation, and textures that behave the way 2020s skin routines expect them to behave.

That's why people sometimes describe the brand as "neo-hanbang". It doesn't try to sell you a mystical potion. It sells you a niacinamide-heavy serum whose supporting cast happens to be propolis, a ginseng-forward essence in a face-mist bottle, and a mineral sunscreen with rice extract instead of the usual white cast. The heritage narrative is real, but the formulations are contemporary — and that's a big part of why the brand travels so well outside Korea.

The hanbang ingredients that do the work (ginseng, rice, propolis, honey)

Beauty of Joseon Glow Propolis Serum 30mlpropolis + niacinamide for post-blemish marks$18Shop now →

Ginseng root extract is the headline ingredient across the brand. In cosmetic use it's associated with a fresher, more even-looking complexion and a slight firming feel over time — nothing dramatic, more of a "skin looks awake" effect. Rice extract and rice bran water show up in several products for softness, a subtle luminous finish, and mild support for uneven tone. Propolis, the resinous substance bees produce to seal the hive, is prized for its soothing and comforting behavior on stressed skin. Honey adds humectant, cushioning feel. Mugwort, red bean, green plum and green tea round out the herbal roster on more targeted products.

Where Beauty of Joseon is different from a pure herbal brand: these hanbang stars are almost always paired with a modern hero — niacinamide, panthenol, centella, PDRN, alpha-arbutin, mineral UV filters. So you're not choosing between "traditional" and "actives". You're getting both in the same bottle, which is really the whole point.

The hero products worth knowing (Relief Sun, Glow Serum, Dynasty Cream, Rice line)

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice Sun Cream 50mlthe SPF that put BOJ on Western radar$17.90Shop now →

Start with the obvious. The Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice Sun Cream 50ml is the product that put the brand on Western radar. It's a hybrid organic sunscreen with rice extract and probiotic ferment; the finish is dewy but not greasy, wearable under makeup, and — crucially for Asian sunscreens sold abroad — it doesn't leave the ashy cast some mineral formulas do. If you prefer a lighter, fresher feel in humid weather, the Relief Sun Aqua Fresh SPF50+ PA++++ 50ml is the newer sibling, more watery, more matte, still with a hanbang backbone.

The Glow Propolis Serum 30ml is the second cult product. It combines a high percentage of propolis extract with niacinamide, which is a genuinely useful pairing for post-blemish marks, uneven tone, and that "tired skin" look at the end of a long week. It layers well, doesn't pill, and — the honest caveat — it's slightly tacky at first before it settles. If your skin is on the calmer, drier side and you want a similar act of soothing without the honey feel, the Calming Serum Green Tea + Panthenol 30ml is a gentler alternative for reactive days.

The Dynasty Cream is the flagship moisturizer: ginseng, niacinamide, orchid extract, a rich but never greasy occlusive-adjacent finish. It's the one to reach for in winter, in flight, or after a peel. If you want a softer daily version, the Glow Replenishing Rice Milk 150ml is more of a lightweight lotion, easy to sink in, especially loved by people who find creams too heavy in the morning.

For your first step, the Radiance Cleansing Balm 100ml is a solid rice-and-papaya balm for melting sunscreen and light makeup. If your skin runs drier or you wear waterproof formulas, the Ginseng Cleansing Oil 210ml emulsifies more thoroughly. On the toner-and-hydration step, the Ginseng Essence Water 150ml is a genuinely underrated product — it's technically an essence, sits between a toner and a first serum, and prepares the skin for whatever active you're layering next. Around the eyes, the Revive Eye Serum 30ml has ginseng and retinal (a form of vitamin A) — start twice a week, then build up.

Two more worth adding to your basket: the Ground Rice And Honey Glow Mask 150ml is a wash-off treatment that gives an instant softer, more glowing look — great before an event — and the Apricot Blossom Peeling Gel 100ml is a mild mechanical exfoliator for days when actives feel like too much. That's a legitimate top-to-toe routine, and you're still well under $200.

Who Beauty of Joseon is really for — and who it isn't

The brand's sweet spot is normal to dry, dehydrated, dull, mildly sensitized or first-signs-of-ageing skin — the kind of skin that wants comfort, radiance and a bit of firmness without harsh actives. If that's you, almost anything in the range will feel like a well-fitting jacket. It's also a smart brand for anyone starting a real Korean skincare routine for the first time: prices are reasonable, textures are polite, and the hero ingredients (niacinamide, propolis, ginseng, rice) are unlikely to trigger anything dramatic.

Where it's less of a natural fit: very oily, congested, actively acne-prone skin that dislikes richer, slightly cushioned textures. The Dynasty Cream and the Glow Serum can feel too much on that skin type in summer. Also, if you're strictly vegan, note that propolis and honey are bee-derived — you'll want to steer around those specific references and stick to the rice, green tea, mugwort or red bean lines instead. And if you have a documented bee-product allergy, skip propolis entirely.

How to build a Beauty of Joseon routine (AM + PM)

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Creamthe flagship ginseng-niacinamide moisturizer$29Shop now →

Morning. A gentle low-pH cleanser (you can use the Rice Milk on a cotton pad for a very mild wake-up), then the Ginseng Essence Water pressed in with your palms, then the Glow Propolis Serum or the Calming Serum depending on how the skin feels that day. Follow with the Dynasty Cream (winter) or the Rice Milk (summer, or if you find creams heavy). Finish with the Relief Sun Rice Sun Cream — two fingers' worth for face and neck, no shortcuts.

Evening. Double cleanse: Radiance Cleansing Balm or Ginseng Cleansing Oil first to break down sunscreen, then a water-based cleanser of your choice. Once or twice a week, swap in the Apricot Blossom Peeling Gel for very light exfoliation, or the Ground Rice and Honey Mask as a 10-minute treatment. Essence, serum, Revive Eye Serum around the orbital bone, moisturizer. That's it — you don't need eight steps to see results, you need the same four or five steps done consistently.

What to expect in the first few weeks

Realistically: the first week is mostly a texture reset. Skin usually feels softer and looks slightly more hydrated within days — that's the humectant and rice component doing its job. The niacinamide and propolis work on the medium term. Uneven tone, post-blemish marks and general dullness typically start shifting somewhere between weeks three and six, and it's cumulative from there. Firmness and finer-line softening from the ginseng and retinal side of the range are a longer game — think two to three months of consistent use, ideally paired with daily SPF.

A note on purging: it's uncommon on Beauty of Joseon because the range is mostly gentle. If your skin does react in the first two weeks — small bumps, mild redness — pull back to one new product at a time, and consider whether the reaction is coming from propolis (it does happen occasionally on very reactive skin). Reintroduce slowly, or switch to the green tea and panthenol side of the catalogue.

Beauty of Joseon — frequently asked questions

Is Beauty of Joseon good for sensitive skin?

Generally yes — most formulas are fragrance-conscious and built around soothing ingredients like propolis, panthenol and centella. That said, "sensitive" varies a lot from one person to another. If your skin reacts to bee derivatives, avoid the propolis line and stick to the green tea, mugwort or rice references.

Is the Relief Sun cream really that different from other Korean sunscreens?

What made it viral is the combination of a comfortable dewy finish, a high protection level, no strong white cast on medium and darker skin tones, and a very accessible price. It's not the only good Korean SPF out there, but it's one of the best value-for-money hybrid formulas we ship, and the Aqua Fresh version gives you a fresher option for hot weather.

Does the Glow Serum actually help with post-acne marks?

Niacinamide and propolis together tend to help with the reddish or brownish shadows left after a blemish, over several weeks. It won't erase deep scars or actively treat cystic acne — you'd pair it with a targeted BHA or clinical treatment for that — but for everyday post-blemish tone, it earns its cult status.

Is Beauty of Joseon cruelty-free and vegan?

The brand publicly states it does not test on animals. It is not fully vegan, though: several hero products contain propolis and honey, which are bee-derived. Check the ingredient list on each product page if that matters for you.

Can I layer several Beauty of Joseon products in the same routine?

Yes — the range is built to work together, which is one of the practical advantages of sticking with a single brand for a while. A common stack is essence, glow or calming serum, cream, sunscreen. Just don't pile on more than one strong active per routine (for example, don't stack the retinal eye serum with a strong evening exfoliation on the same night).

Is Dynasty Cream too rich for warm weather?

For dry or mature skin, it's usually still comfortable in summer — just use a smaller amount. For combination or oily skin, swap to the Rice Milk in warm months and keep the Dynasty Cream for evenings, flights or colder seasons.

Are Beauty of Joseon products fragrance-free?

Most are formulated without added synthetic fragrance, though some have a very light natural scent from the botanical extracts themselves. If you're strictly fragrance-avoidant, always check the ingredient list on the product page.

How long do Beauty of Joseon products last once opened?

The period-after-opening symbol on each pack is the reference — usually 12 months for creams and serums. In practice, if you use a full routine daily, most 30ml serums last two to three months and the 50ml Relief Sun disappears in one to two months if you use enough (which you should).

Our Beauty of Joseon selection at Kool Seoul

Each reference below is in stock and shipped from Seoul. Tap any product to shop.

Shop all Beauty of Joseon →

Why shop Beauty of Joseon at Kool Seoul

— Yeseo, team Kool Seoul · sourced from Seoul, shipped worldwide